You may be surprised to find silicones in multiple hair products such as heat protectants, serums, conditioners, shampoos, hair oils, hair treatments, styling products and even cosmetics, lotions and sun- block creams. Silicones are substances that are made only by chemical synthesis; they are not found in nature and are inorganic polymers with siloxane bonds holding silicon and oxygen together in their molecular structure (derived from petrochemicals).
Hair products frequently contain silicones to give your hair a glossy and silky finish. The problem is that, although silicones may temporarily give your hair this healthy appearance, they actually form a barrier around each individual hair strand. Although this barrier may seem protective, over time it causes dryness because it keeps nutrients and moisture out. This can eventually result in problems including split ends, brittleness, and a general lack of luster. On the scalp, it clogs the pores leading to an oily, itchy or flaky scalp and may cause thining hair, especially if you suffer from eczema or skin sensitivities. A clean and residue-free scalp is crucial for healthy hair, providing a favorable environment for hair growth.
Color-saving shampoos and conditioners frequently contain silicones to help shield color-treated hair by forming a barrier that slows down the rate at which color fades. But buildup can also hinder color absorption when it comes to coloring your hair. As a side note, not all silicones create a buildup on the hair. There are typically 3 types of silicones: evaporating silicones, water-insoluble and water-soluble silicones. If you have curly hair, water-insoluble silicones should be avoided as it leads to dryness and a loss of definition, with fine or thin hair silicones are more likely to weigh it down.
Although there are many different views on how silicones influence hair thinning or loss, it's crucial to consider the long-term effects of regularly using hair products that contain harmful ingredients like silicones.
Silicones are regarded as "safe" for cosmetic use because of their extremely stable chemical structure, both physically and biochemically. They are regarded as non-comedogenic and neither irritating nor allergic. On the other hand there are more questions than answers. As of January 1, 2022, cyclotetrasiloxane (D4) is prohibited by European Cosmetic Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 due to to the substantial likelihood that it is an endocrine disruptor. According to current studies no particular negative health risks are associated with other silicones.
With about 70 years in existence, the silicone family contains a wide variety of derivatives that can be found as volatile or non-volatile in resins, elastomers or oils. Numerous industries use silicones, including aerospace, automotive, construction, textiles, food, healthcare and cosmetics. The biodegradability of silicones is impacted by their extremely resistant chemical structure. In actuality, silicones are either completely non-biodegradable or extremely difficult to biodegrade. Nearly 1.3 million tons of silicones were produced worldwide in 2021, with probably more annually since then.
Rinse-off beauty and hair products that include silicones eventually wind up in wastewater. A substantial amount is released into the environment endangering biodiversity by contaminating the earth and oceans. The European Commission acted to restrict the use of silicones Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D4) and Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5) in rinse-off personal cosmetics to a maximum of 0.1% including Cyclohexasiloxane (D6) for both rinse-off and leave-in products since they are classified as "Persistent, Bioaccumulative, and Toxic" (PBT) compounds.
I try to avoid silicones and always persuade my clients from doing so, not just it's impact on the environment but the hair too. I find that it affects the process of hair color applications, where colors are not as vibrant and don't last as long, and interferes with other healthier hair care products. If used, I encourage it to be used sparingly and less often, preferably for special occasions when you need to "dress up" the hair. If you can don't apply it to your scalp. Try avoiding non-water-soluble and evaporative silicones if possible.
If avoiding silicone products on your hair, look for ingredients that finish in "-cone," which denotes silicone in your hair products. Certain silicones, particularly those that aren't soluble in water, can make your hair less healthy. Use the list provided for refrence.
Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, and Amodimethicone are the most common examples; nevertheless, they are also the most detrimental to your hair since they do not dissolve in water and promote product buildup, which makes your hair brittle and prone to breaking.
Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Amodimethicone, Pheryl Trimethicone, Ceteraryl Methicone, Dimethiconol, Stearyl Dimethicone, Amodimethicone (which is non-soluble in the absence of cetrimonium chloride and trideceth-12) are among the silicones that should be avoided in hair products.
Conclusion
Making the switch to a non-silicone routine allows your scalp to breathe and provides your hair with the nourishment it deserves. This change can result in healthier, fuller-looking hair that doesn't rely on artificial products for shine and luster.
Silicones can be replicated by a number of natural products. In another article I will discuss the signs of silicone product buildup in hair, how to remove it from your hair, and replace them with natural oils for different hair types and goals.
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