UNDERSTANDING ORGANIC LABELLING ON A PRODUCT

The Federal Food Drug & Cosmetic Act requires that color additives must be approved by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) before they are used in cosmetic and hair dye products.  Organic products are certified by the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) and cosmetics are regulated by the FDA.  The FDA does not regulate or define the word “organic.”   It is important to note there are thousands of studies done on hair colorants and not that many on botanicals.  There is a lack of certifications and standards on what is organic when it comes to hair products.

Understanding the 4 Levels of Organic Certification can help explain why professional and conventional hair dyes are not completely organic or natural.

100% Organic Certified:  All ingredients and processing aids must be certified organic. These foods may use the USDA organic seal as well as the 100% organic claim.  There is no use of pesticides or non natural or harmful chemicals.  Therefore a professional or conventional hair dye cannot be listed as such. 

Organic Certified:  All agricultural ingredients must be certified organic, but the product can contain up to 5% non-organic content.  These foods may use the USDA organic seal.  These products would contain at least 95% organic ingredients.   I have yet to see a professional or conventional hair dye listed as such. 

Made With Organic Ingredients:  Contains at least 70% certified organic ingredients; the remaining 30% is not required to be certified organic, but also may not be produced using excluded methods.  These foods may not use the USDA organic seal.  I have yet to see a professional or conventional hair dye listed as such. 

Specific Organic Ingredients:  Contains less than 70% certified organic ingredients.  May list certified organic ingredients as organic in the ingredient list.  These foods may not use the USDA organic seal.  They may state on the front of their package that the product contains “specific organic ingredients,” and can specify on their ingredient list which are organic and which aren’t.  This is more in line with "organic" professional and conventional hair dyes. 

INGREDIENTS NEEDED IN HAIR DYES TO WORK

There are only four ingredients needed to make a color work and a surfactant. The first 4 are oxidative dyes (color pigments),  antioxidants that maintain the integrity of these dyes and prevent them from reacting before they are used.  An alkalizer (pH adjuster) like ammonia, monoethanolamine (MEA/DEA/TEA), or Amino-methyl Propanol (AMP) and lastly,  hydrogen peroxide which releases oxygen and carrries these dyes into the hair.  These ingredients are then added to a surfactant. 

Surfactants make up the highest concentration of total product volume and is the delivery system to the hair.  They can be organic/natural, naturally derived, synthetic or in combination.  It's purpose is to give the product its gel, oily or cream like consistency.  Some organic brands may add certified organic or natural ingredients or other beneficial ingredients to improve or maintain the integrity of the hair and scalp. 

100% ORGANIC HAIR COLOR IS POSSIBLE

Although not so commonly used in hair salons, there are many people who still enjoy these botanical choices today such as using henna, indigo, tea, coffee, beetroot and a few other dyes to color their hair.  These can come with some negatives and limitations with color variation, color consistency and gray coverage.  It's important to do your research if trying to avoid chemical ingredients before using this color option as some brands are not chemical free.  With henna some people report issues with hair texture and dryness when using it over time.  I would advise seeking out experienced hair stylists (they are out there) who work with mixing many of these botanical ingredients together for gray blending and more.  This is a great way to have a positive first experience into pure natural/organic hair color.  If you cannot find a stylist in your area contact them and ask if they can customize a color for you and have it shipped it to you.

WHAT TO DO NEXT....

Make An Informed Decision when selecting an organic/natural color dye for your hair ask for the percentage of organic, natural and natural derived ingredients.  You can also look for percentages of these following ingredients if they're a concern to you: 

P-phenylenediamine (PPDA or PPD) found in dark colored dyes.  Para-toulene-2,5-diamine sulfate (TDS or PTDS) often used as an alternative to PPD.  Lastly, monoethanolamine (MEA, DEA, TEA) or ammonia.  

These ingredient names are used synonymously and may have abbreviations so take this into consideration when doing your research.  You may find  percentages hard to figure out or obtain from the color brand manufacturer, their sales rep or even a hair stylist.  The most you will be able to obtain is an ingredient list which I will explain on how to read to make it a little easier to estimate concentrations. 

I highly encourage you  read this article from Cosmetic and Toiletries.  A definitive peer-reviewed and cosmetic science resource website regarding some of the misleading and confusing marketing and health claims on ammonia-free color products being replaced by MEA (monoethanolamine) as a safer option along with other interesting non-biased facts.  You may be very surprised.

Ingredients On Labels are listed in descending order with the most abundant and concentrated ingredients listed first.  Hopefully with this method you will be able to see the ingredients you feel that are of a concern to you or which should be considered. Please note that just because an active or beneficial ingredient/s is listed at a low concentration (bottom of list) doesn't necessarily mean it has to be at a high dose to work as some ingredients work well in low concentrations.  As an example, essential oils, salicylic acid and retinol listed in some cosmetic products work really well at 3% or less.  

Allergies & Sensitivities to chemicals can be a concern as can be botanicals, natural and naturally derived ingredients.  Some internal and external factors, medications, age, etc. may also exacerbate or trigger sensitivities to any ingredient.  It has even been observed that for certain individuals, dyeing their hair during their menstrual cycle might increase skin sensitivity and reactivity to color.

Value Engineering is applied to some beauty brands every time they are acquired or rebranded in order to reduce production costs, increase profit margin and extend shelf life.  Cheaper synthetic/chemical ingredients tend to replace high quality natural and organic ingredients.  Here are a few examples that I recall that come to mind: Coty (Wella, Sassoon, Nioxin), Estée Lauder (Bumble & Bumble, Aveda), Hankel (Schwarzkopf), L’Oreal (Pureology, Redken, Matrix) to name a few.  If you find yourself reacting to a color dye this may be the cause as the ingredients may have changed.  

To lean on the side of caution, a Patch Test is highly recommended before trying a new color or any color,  especially so if you suffer from sensitivities.  A nickel-size amount of color product is applied behind the ear or the inside of the forearm.  If possible, cover with a bandage to avoid having it rubbed or washed off and wait 24 to 48 hours before proceeding with your hair color service.  These tests can be done by you hair stylist during a color consultation or prior to booking your appointment at a salon.

*The Content is not intended to be a substitute for professional medical advice, diagnosis, or treatment.  Always seek the advice of your physician or other qualified health provider with any questions you may have regarding a medical condition. 

11/11/2024